7 Natural
Wonders of the World
| Mount
Everest |
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| Nepal
/ China, Asia |
| 7
Natural Wonders of the World |
| |
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| Height -height
above sea level of its summit,
8,848 metres (29,029 ft) |
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Mount
Everest, Tibet, China [1] |
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Mount
Everest—also known as Sagarmatha
or Chomolungma—is the highest
mountain on Earth, as measured
by the height of its summit above
sea level. The mountain, which
is part of the Himalaya range
in High Asia, is located on the
border between Nepal and Tibet.
Its summit was first reached in
1953 by Edmund Hillary of New
Zealand and Tenzing Norgay of
Nepal. Its exact height is debated,
but is approximately 29,000 feet
above sea level. Climbing Everest
has generated controversy in recent
years, as nearly 200 people have
died climbing the mountain. |
Mount
Everest from base camp one[2] |
Challenging
Everest
Mount Everest as seen from the Rongbuk
Monastery.Several attempts to challenge
Everest had failed before it was finally
conquered in 1953. The most famous
of the previous challengers was the
British adventurer George Mallory,
who disappeared with his climbing
partner Andrew Irvine, somewhere high
on the northeast ridge during the
first ascent of the mountain in June,
1924. The pair's last known sighting
was only a few hundred meters from
the summit. Mallory's ultimate fate
was unknown for 75 years, until 1999
when his body was finally discovered.
In 1951, a British expedition
led by Eric Shipton and including
Edmund Hillary, traveled into Nepal
to survey a new route via the southern
face. Taking their cue from the British,
in 1952 a Swiss expedition attempted
to climb via the southern face, but
the assault team of Raymond Lambert
and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay turned back
600 feet short of the summit. The
Swiss attempted another expedition
in the autumn of 1952; this time a
team including Lambert and Tenzing
turned back at an earlier stage in
the climb.
In 1953, a ninth British
expedition, led by Baron of Llanfair
Waterdine, John Hunt, returned to
Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing
pairs to attempt to reach the summit.
The first pair turned back after becoming
exhausted high on the mountain. The
next day, the expedition made its
second and final assault on the summit
with its fittest and most determined
climbing pair. The summit was eventually
reached at 11:30 a.m. local time on
May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander
Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay,
a Sherpa from Nepal, climbing the
South Col Route. At the time, both
acknowledged it as a team effort by
the whole expedition, but Tenzing
revealed a few years later that Hillary
had put his foot on the summit first.
They paused at the summit to take
photographs and buried a few sweets
and a small cross in the snow before
descending. News of the expedition's
success reached London on the morning
of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation.
Returning to Kathmandu a few days
later, Hillary and Hunt discovered
that they had been promptly knighted
for their efforts.
Naming
The ancient Sanskrit names for the
mountain are Devgiri for "Holy
Mountain," and Devadurga. The
Tibetan name is Chomolungma or Qomolangma,
meaning "Mother of the Universe,"
and the related Chinese name is Zhumùlangma
Feng or Shèngmu Feng.
In 1865, the mountain
was given its English name by Andrew
Scott Waugh, the British surveyor-general
of India. With both Nepal and Tibet
closed to foreign travel, he wrote:
I was taught by my respected
chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir
[George] Everest to assign to every
geographical object its true local
or native appellation. But here is
a mountain, most probably the highest
in the world, without any local name
that we can discover, whose native
appellation, if it has any, will not
very likely be ascertained before
we are allowed to penetrate into Nepal.
In the meantime the privilege as well
as the duty devolves on me to assign…a
name whereby it may be known among
citizens and geographers and become
a household word among civilized nations.
Waugh chose to name
the mountain after Everest, first
using the spelling "Mont Everest,"
and then "Mount Everest."
However, the modern pronunciation
of Everest is in fact different from
Sir George's own pronunciation of
his surname.
In the early 1960s,
the Nepalese government realized that
Mount Everest had no Nepalese name.
This was because the mountain was
not known and named in ethnic Nepal,
that is, the Kathmandu valley and
surrounding areas. The government
set out to find a name for the mountain
since the Sherpa/Tibetan name Chomolangma
was not acceptable, as it would have
been against the idea of unification,
or Nepalization, of the country. The
name Sagarmatha in Sanskrit for "Head
of the Sky" was thus invented
by Baburam Acharya.
In 2002, the Chinese
People's Daily newspaper published
an article making a case against the
continued use of the English name
for the mountain in the Western world,
insisting that it should be referred
to by its Tibetan name. The newspaper
argued that the Chinese name preceded
the English one, as Mount Qomolangma
was marked on a Chinese map more than
280 years ago.
Measurement
Aerial view of Mount Everest.Attempts
to measure Everest have yielded results
ranging from 29,000 to 29,035 feet.
Radhanath Sikdar, an Indian mathematician
and surveyor, was the first to identify
Everest as the world's highest peak
in 1852, using trigonometric calculations
based on measurements of "Peak
XV" (as it was then known) made
with theodolites from 150 miles (240
kilometers) away in India. Measurement
could not be made from closer due
to a lack of access to Nepal. "Peak
XV" was found to be exactly 29,000
feet (8,839 m) high, but was publicly
declared to be 29,002 feet (8,840
m). The arbitrary addition of 2 feet
(0.6 m) was to avoid the impression
that an exact height of 29,000 feet
was nothing more than a rounded estimate.
The mountain was found
to be 29,028 feet (8,848 meters) high,
although there is some variation in
the measurements. The mountain K2
comes in second at 28,251 feet (8,611
meters) high. On May 22, 2005. the
People's Republic of China's Everest
Expedition Team ascended to the top
of the mountain. After several months'
complicated measurement and calculation,
on October 9, 2005, the PRC's State
Bureau of Surveying and Mapping officially
announced the height of Everest as
29,017.16 ± 0.69 feet (8,844.43
± 0.21 meters). They claimed
it was the most accurate measurement
to date. But this new height is based
on the actual highest point of rock
and not on the snow and ice that sits
on top of that rock on the summit.
So, in keeping with the practice used
on Mont Blanc and Khan Tangiri Shyngy,
it is not shown here.
Another aerial view
of Mount Everest.In May 1999, an American
Everest Expedition, directed by Bradford
Washburn, anchored a GPS unit into
the highest bedrock. A rock-head elevation
of 29,035 feet (8,850 meters), and
a snow/ice elevation 3 ft (i meter)
higher, were obtained via this device.
Nepal, however, did not officially
recognize this survey, and the discrepancy
with the above mentioned 2005 Chinese
survey is significantly greater than
the surveys' claimed accuracy. Meanwhile,
it is thought that the plate tectonics
of the area are adding to the height
and moving the summit north-eastwards.
Everest is the mountain
whose summit attains the greatest
distance above sea level. Two other
mountains are sometimes claimed as
alternative "tallest mountains
on Earth." Mauna Kea in Hawaii
is tallest when measured from its
base; it rises about 6.3 miles (over
10,203 meters) when measured from
its base on the mid-Pacific ocean
floor, but only attains 13,796 feet
(4,205 meters) above sea level. The
summit of Chimborazo, a volcano in
Ecuador is 7,113 feet (2,168 meters)
farther from the Earth's center than
that of Everest, because the Earth
bulges at the Equator. However, Chimborazo
attains a height of 20,561 feet (6,267
meters), and by this criterion it
is not even the highest peak of the
Andes mountains.
The deepest spot in
the ocean is deeper than Everest is
high: the Challenger Deep, located
in the Mariana Trench, is so deep
that if Everest were to be placed
into it there would be more than 1.25
miles (2 kilometers) of water covering
it.
Additionally, the Mount
Everest region, and the Himalaya mountains
in general, are thought to be experiencing
ice-melt due to global warming. In
a warming study, the exceptionally
heavy southwest summer monsoon of
2005 is consistent with continued
warming and augmented convective uplift
on the Tibetan plateau to the north.
Climbing Everest
Death zone
A death zone is typically any area
classified as higher than 24,000 feet,
and while all death zones deserve
their moniker, Everest's is particularly
brutal. Temperatures can dip to very
low levels, resulting in frostbite
of any body part exposed to the air.
Because temperatures are so low, snow
is well-frozen in certain areas and
death by slipping and falling can
also occur. High winds at these altitudes
on Everest are also a potential threat
to climbers. The atmospheric pressure
at the top of Everest is about a third
of sea level pressure, meaning there
is about a third as much oxygen available
to breathe as at sea level.
As of the end of the
2004 climbing season, 2,238 people
had reached the summit (1,148 of them
since 1998) and 186 people died in
the attempt. The conditions on the
mountain are so difficult that most
of the corpses have been left where
they fell; some of them are easily
visible from the standard climbing
routes.
Climbing routes
Mt. Everest has two main climbing
routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal
and the northeast ridge from Tibet,
as well as other less frequently climbed
routes. Of the two main routes, the
southeast ridge is technically easier
and is the more frequently used route.
It was the route used by Edmund Hillary
and Tenzing Norgay in 1953, and the
first recognized of fifteen routes
to the top by 1996. This was, however,
a route decision dictated more by
politics than by design, as the Chinese
border was closed to foreigners in
1949. Reinhold Messner of Italy summited
the mountain solo for the first time,
without supplementary oxygen or support,
on the more difficult Northwest route
via the North Col, a high mountain
pass, to the North Face and the Great
Couloir, on August 20, 1980. He climbed
for three days entirely alone from
his base camp at 19,500 feet (6500
meters). This route has been noted
as the eighth climbing route to the
summit.
Most attempts are made
during April and May, before the summer
monsoon season. A change in the jet
stream at this time of year reduces
the average wind speeds high on the
mountain. While attempts are sometimes
made after the monsoons in September
and October, the additional snow deposited
by the monsoons and the less stable
weather patterns make climbing more
difficult.
Southeast ridge
The ascent via the southeast ridge
begins with a trek to Base Camp on
the Khumbu Glacier at 17,600 feet
(5,380 meters) on the south side of
Everest, in Nepal. Expeditions usually
fly into Lukla from Kathmandu. Climbers
then hike to Base Camp, which usually
takes six to eight days, allowing
for proper altitude acclimatization
in order to prevent altitude sickness.
Climbing equipment and supplies are
carried to Base Camp by yaks, yak
hybrids, and porters. When Hillary
and Tenzing climbed Everest in 1953,
they started from Kathmandu Valley,
as there were no roads further east
at that time.
Southeast ridge Base
Camp. The Khumbu Icefall can be seen
in the left. In the center are the
remains of a helicopter that crashed
in 2003.Climbers will spend a couple
of weeks in Base Camp, acclimatizing
to the altitude. During that time,
Sherpas and some expedition climbers
will set up ropes and ladders in the
treacherous Khumbu Icefall. Seracs
(ice pinacles), crevasses, and shifting
blocks of ice make the ice-fall one
of the most dangerous sections of
the route. Many climbers and Sherpas
have been killed in this section.
To reduce the hazard, climbers will
usually begin their ascent well before
dawn when the freezing temperatures
glue ice blocks in place. Above the
ice-fall is Camp I, or Advanced Base
Camp, at 19,900 feet (6,065 meters).
From Camp I, climbers
make their way up the Western Cwm
to the base of the Lhotse face, where
Camp II is established at 21,300 feet
(6,500 meters). The Western Cwm is
a relatively flat, gently rising glacial
valley, marked by huge lateral crevasses
in the center that prevent direct
access to the upper reaches of the
Cwm. Climbers are forced to cross
on the far right near the base of
Nuptse to a small passageway known
as the "Nuptse corner."
The Western Cwm is also called the
"Valley of Silence" as the
topography of the area generally cuts
off wind from the climbing route.
The high altitude and a clear, windless
day can make the Western Cwm unbearably
hot for climbers.
From Camp II, climbers
ascend the Lhotse face on fixed ropes
up to Camp III, located on a small
ledge at 24,500 feet (7,740 meters).
From there, it is another 1500 feet
(500 meters) to Camp IV on the South
Col at 26,000 feet (7,920 meters).
From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers
are faced with two additional challenges:
The Geneva Spur and The Yellow Band.
The Geneva Spur is an anvil-shaped
rib of black rock named by a 1952
Swiss expedition. Fixed ropes assist
climbers in scrambling over this snow-covered
rock band. The Yellow Band is a section
of sedimentary sandstone which also
requires about 300 feet of rope for
traversing it.
On the South Col climbers
enter the death zone. Climbers typically
only have a maximum of two or three
days they can endure at this altitude
for making summit bids. Clear weather
and low winds are critical factors
in deciding whether to make a summit
attempt. If weather does not cooperate
within these short few days, climbers
are forced to descend, many all the
way back down to Base Camp.
From Camp IV, climbers
will begin their summit push around
midnight with hopes of reaching the
summit (still another 3,000 feet above)
within 10 to 12 hours. Climbers will
first reach "The Balcony"
at 27,700 feet (8400 meters), a small
platform where they can rest and gaze
at peaks to the south and east in
the early dawn light. Continuing up
the ridge, climbers are then faced
with a series of imposing rock steps
which usually forces them to the east
into waist deep snow, a serious avalanche
hazard. At 28,700 feet (8,750 meters),
a small, table-sized dome of ice and
snow marks the South Summit.
From the South Summit,
climbers follow the knife-edge southeast
ridge along what is known as the "Cornice
traverse" where snow clings to
intermittent rock. This is the most
exposed section of the climb as a
misstep to the left would send one
8,000 feet (2,400 meters) down the
southwest face while to the immediate
right is the 10,000-foot (3,050 meters)
Kangshung face. At the end of this
traverse is an imposing 40-foot (12-meter)
rock wall called the "Hillary
Step" at 28,750 feet (8,760 meters).
Hillary and Tenzing
were the first climbers to ascend
this step and they did it with primitive,
ice-climbing equipment and without
fixed ropes. Nowadays, climbers will
ascend this step using fixed ropes
previously set up by Sherpas. Once
above the step, it is a comparatively
easy climb to the top on moderately
angled snow slopes—though the
exposure on the ridge is extreme especially
while traversing very large cornices
of snow. After the Hillary Step, climbers
also must traverse a very loose and
rocky section that has a very large
entanglement of fixed ropes that can
be troublesome in bad weather. Climbers
will typically spend less than a half-hour
on "top of the world" as
they realize the need to descend to
Camp IV before darkness sets in, afternoon
weather becomes a serious problem,
or supplemental oxygen tanks run out.
Northeast ridge
Everest North FaceThe northeast ridge
route begins from the north side of
Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek
to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up
Base Camp at 17,000 feet (5,180 meters)
on a gravel plain just below the glacier.
To reach Camp II, climbers ascend
the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk
Glacier up to the base of Changtse
at around 20,000 feet (6,100 meters).
Camp III (ABC—Advanced Base
Camp) is situated below the North
Col at 21,300 feet (6,500 meters).
To reach Camp IV on the North Col,
climbers ascend the glacier to the
foot of the Col where fixed ropes
are used to reach the North Col at
23,000 feet (7,010 meters). From the
North Col, climbers ascend the rocky
north ridge to set up Camp V at around
25,500 feet (7,775 meters).
The route goes up the
north face through a series of gullies
and steepens into downsloping, slabbed
terrain before reaching the site of
Camp VI at 27,000 feet (8,230 meters).
From Camp VI, climbers will make their
final summit push. Climbers must first
make their way through three rock
bands known as First Step, Second
Step, and the Third Step, which end
at 28,870 feet. Once above these steps,
the final summit slopes (50 to 60
degrees) to the top.
Permits Required
Mountain climbers are a significant
source of tourist revenue for Nepal;
they range from experienced mountaineers
to relative novices who count on their
paid guides to get them to the top.
The Nepalese government also requires
a permit from all prospective climbers;
this carries a heavy fee, often more
than $25,000 per person.
Recent events and controversies
During the 1996 climbing season, fifteen
people died trying to reach the summit,
making it the deadliest single year
in Everest history. On May 10, a storm
stranded several climbers between
the summit and the safety of Camp
IV, killing five on the south side.
Two of the climbers were highly experienced
climbers who were leading paid expeditions
to the summit. The disaster gained
wide publicity and raised questions
about the commercialization of Everest.
Journalist Jon Krakauer,
on assignment from Outside magazine,
was also in the doomed party, and
afterward published the bestseller
Into Thin Air, which related his experience.
Anatoli Boukreev, a guide who felt
impugned by Krakauer's book, co-authored
a rebuttal book called The Climb.
The dispute sparked a large debate
within the climbing community. In
May 2004, Kent Moore, a physicist,
and John L. Semple, a surgeon, both
researchers from the University of
Toronto, told New Scientist magazine
that an analysis of weather conditions
on that day suggested that freak weather
caused oxygen levels to plunge by
around 14 percent. During the same
season, climber and filmmaker David
Breashears and his team filmed the
IMAX feature Everest on the mountain.
The 70-mm IMAX camera was specially
modified to be lightweight enough
to carry up the mountain, and to function
in the extreme cold with the use of
particular greases on the mechanical
parts, plastic bearings, and special
batteries. Production was halted as
Breashears and his team assisted the
survivors of the May 10 disaster,
but the team eventually reached the
top on May 23, and filmed the first
large format footage of the summit.
On Breashears' team was Jamling Tenzing
Norgay, the son of Tenzing Norgay,
following in his father's footsteps
for the first time. Also on his team
was Ed Viesturs of Seattle, Washington,
who summited without the use of supplemental
oxygen, and Araceli Seqarra, who became
the first woman from Spain to summit
Everest.
The storm's impact on
climbers on the mountain's other side,
the North Ridge, where several climbers
also died, was detailed in a first-hand
account by British filmmaker and writer,
Matt Dickinson, in his book The Other
Side of Everest.
2003—50th anniversary of first
ascent
The year 2003 marked the 50th anniversary
of the first ascent, and a record
number of teams, and some very distinguished
climbers, attempted to climb the mountain
this year. Several record attempts
were attempted, and achieved:
Dick Bass—the
first person to climb the seven summits,
and who first stood atop Everest in
1985 at 55 years old (making him the
oldest person at that time to do so)
returned in 2003 to attempt to reclaim
his title. At 73, he would have reclaimed
this honor, but he made it to ABC
only. Dick's team mates included the
renowned American climbers Jim Wickwire
and John Roskelley.
Outdoor Life Network
Expendition—OLN staged a high-profile,
survivor-style television series where
the winners got the chance to climb
Everest. Conrad Anker and David Breashears
were commentators on this expedition.
Adventure Peaks Expedition—Walid
Abuhaidar and Philip James attempted
to become the youngest American and
British climbers to climb the North
Face, but their expeditions were cut
short when one of their team mates
fell and broke his leg on the summit
ridge at a height of approximately
25,800 feet (8,600 meters). The ensuing
rescue was claimed to be the highest-altitude
rescue. A documentary is currently
being produced on this expedition.
2005—Helicopter landing
On May 14, 2005, pilot Didier Delsalle
of France landed a Eurocopter AS 350
B3 Helicopter on the summit of Mount
Everest and remained there for two
minutes (his rotors were continually
engaged; this is known as a "hover
landing"). His subsequent take-off
set the world record for highest take-off
of a rotorcraft—a record that,
of course, cannot be beaten. Delsalle
had also performed a take-off two
days earlier from the South Col, leading
to some confusion in the press about
the validity of the summit claim.
This event does not count as an "ascent"
in the usual fashion.
David Sharp controversy
Double-amputee climber Mark Inglis
revealed in an interview with the
press on May 23, 2006, that his climbing
party, and many others, had passed
a distressed climber, David Sharp,
on May 15, sheltering under a rock
overhang 1350 feet (450 meters) below
the summit, without attempting a rescue.
The revelation sparked wide debate
on climbing ethics, especially as
applied to Everest. The climbers who
left him said that the rescue efforts
would be useless and only cause more
deaths because of how many people
it would have taken to pull him off.
Much of this controversy was captured
by the Discovery Channel while filming
the television program Everest: Beyond
the Limit. The issue of theft also
became part of the controversy. Vitor
Negrete, the first Brazilian to climb
Everest without oxygen and part of
David Sharp's party, died during his
descent, and theft from his high-altitude
camp may have contributed.
As this debate raged,
on May 26, Australian climber Lincoln
Hall was found alive, after being
declared dead the day before. He was
found by a party of four climbers
who, giving up their own summit attempt,
stayed with Hall and descended with
him and a party of 11 Sherpas sent
up to carry him down. Hall later fully
recovered.
Bottled oxygen controversy
Most expeditions use oxygen masks
and tanks above 26,246 feet (8,000
meters), with this region known as
the death zone. Everest can be climbed
without supplementary oxygen, but
this increases the risk to the climber.
Humans do not think clearly with low
oxygen, and the combination of severe
weather, low temperatures, and steep
slopes often require quick, accurate
decisions.
The use of bottled oxygen
to ascend Mount Everest has been controversial.
British climber George Mallory described
the use of such oxygen as unsportsmanlike,
but he later concluded that it would
be impossible to reach the summit
and consequently used it. Mallory,
who attempted the peak three times
in the 1920s, is perhaps best known
for his response to a journalist as
to why he was climbing Everest. "Because
it is there," was his answer.
When Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary
made the first successful summit in
1953, they used bottled oxygen. For
the next twenty-five years, bottled
oxygen was considered standard for
any successful summit.
Reinhold Messner was
the first climber to break the bottled
oxygen tradition and in 1978, with
Peter Habeler, made the first successful
climb without it. Although critics
alleged that he sucked mini-bottles
of oxygen—a claim that Messner
denied—Messner silenced them
when he summited the mountain, without
supplemental oxygen or support, on
the more difficult northwest route,
in 1980. In the aftermath of Messner's
two successful ascents, the debate
on bottled oxygen usage continued.
The aftermath of the
1996 Mount Everest disaster further
intensified the debate. Jon Krakauer's
Into Thin Air (1997) expressed the
author's personal criticisms of the
use of bottled oxygen. Krakauer wrote
that the use of bottled oxygen allowed
otherwise unqualified climbers to
attempt to summit, leading to dangerous
situations and more deaths. The May
10 disaster was partially caused by
the sheer number of climbers (33 on
that day) attempting to ascend, causing
bottlenecks at Hillary Step and delaying
many climbers, most of whom summited
after the usual 2:00 p.m. turnaround
time. Krakauer proposed banning bottled
oxygen except for emergency cases,
arguing that this would both decrease
the growing pollution on Everest,
and keep marginally qualified climbers
off the mountain. The 1996 disaster
also introduced the issue of the guide's
role in using bottled oxygen.
While most climbers
in the mountaineering community support
Krakauer's point of view, others feel
that there is only a small set of
climbers, such as Anatoli Boukreev
and Ed Viesturs, who can climb without
supplementary oxygen and still function
well. Most climbers agree that a guide
cannot directly help clients if he
or she cannot concentrate or think
clearly, and thus should use bottled
oxygen.
Life forms on the mountain
Euophrys omnisuperstes, a minute,
black jumping spider, has been found
at elevations as high as 20,100 feet(6,700
meters), possibly making it the highest
altitude, confirmed, permanent resident
on earth. They lurk in crevices and
possibly feed on frozen insects that
have been blown there by the wind.
It should be noted that there is a
high likelihood of microscopic life
at even higher altitudes.
Birds, such as the bar-headed
goose have been seen flying at the
higher altitudes of the mountain,
while others such as the Chough have
been spotted at high levels on the
mountain itself, scavenging on food,
or even corpses, left over by climbing
expeditions.[3]
This is the Everest
Dream, the most awe-inspiring video
ever seen.